Discerning the Differences between the Nikon D800 and D800E

Hello,

No sorry. Nikon's Capture NX2 or Adobe's Lightroom 4.1 have moiré removal tools.

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Hello,

A Bayer pattern sensor is essentially a grid or pattern that captures patterns, for example blades of grass or stitching in fabric. Subjects that contain a fine regular pattern such as a woven textile, fine pieces of hair, or scenes containing repetitive details, such as strong vertical lines in architecture, will more commonly experience moiré. Likewise, false colors are artifacts and can occur randomly.

How and when this happens, no one can tell.

Nikon has more info on this here: Moiré & False Color

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Hello;

Because the D800+D800E can capture so much detail, tripods are recommended because the cameras can capture and render the slightest camera shake. Nikon recommended shooting the D800E no slower than 1/125th of a sec handheld. YMMV

If a tripod is not to your liking, you may want to consider a mono pod to aid in keeping the camera steady.

The Manfrotto 682B is a three-section monopod featuring three retractable legs, sure rubber grip, wrist carrying strap, quick action lever leg lock system with 45° flip, large 2.3" camera/head platform with plastic cover and dual 1/4-20" - 3/8" camera screw.The included 234RC swivel-tilt head was designed specifically for monopods. The head with quick-release features a one-axis movement which allows the positioning of the camera for a vertical format with the Monopod in the upright stance

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The D800e is provided with special software for correcting the moiré issue that occurs when capturing images with it. If you are comfortable with your current workflow it should not be much trouble adding that program to the flow. By this point the D800e has been out long enough that you should be able to find any of several rental houses that you could rent one and take it for a test drive. If you’re not happy with the results or workflow then you could always opt for the D800.

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For your stated usage, the Nikon D800 DSLR camera would be my recommendation for your needs.

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For your stated usage, the Nikon D800 DSLR camera would be my recommendation for your needs.

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Hello,

For image quality, the larger D800 sensor would be the better choice. I just want to point out that with regards to lens ports, you have more DX (aka D7000) lens port options especially wide angle than FX.

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If you need the camera to be a general all-purpose camera, then the Nikon D800 would be my recommendation. Only if you are familiar with handling and processing morie, and/or have used medium format cameras that do not have anti-aliasing filters would I recommend the Nikon D800E DSLR camera. Repeating patterns that occur in architecture and not being able to fully control the lighting/shooting conditions would lead me to recommend the D800 over the D800E. Simply by the increase of resolution with the D800/D800E would assist in increasing the image quality and resolution sharpness compared to the D3 if you are using Nikon's professional lenses (which I assome from the equipment you already own). As it seems you have used your equipment for awhile and if you are willing to learn to handle shooting with morie, my recommemndation would be to simply rent both cameras and shoot with them in various conditions, then view the images at 100% and decide based on how each camera performs. Working with morie can be learned, but based strictly on your above statements, my recommendation would be for the D800.

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Nikon takes OUT a filter on the d800e and charges more for the camera it make no cense

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Yes, the Nikon D800 would be recommended over the Nikon D800E for your stated needs. However, if the camera is needed for speed, while your D700 cameras have a continuous frame rate of 5 frames per second (fps) and the D800 is increased to 6 fps, the D4 is currently Nikon's fastest camera at 10 fps. It would simply depend on your budget and needs as to if you need the faster D4, or if the slight increase in speed of the D800 would be sufficient for your needs.

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Both models are recommendable depending on your budget and application. Let us know what type of work you are purchasing a camera for and the price range you would like to stay within and we can make a focused recommendation for you.

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The Nikon D800 would be my recommendation for aerial photography.

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Both are well suited for architecture. Depending on how you like to shoot and what type of work flow and post production you are more interested in would determine which would be best for you. I more commonly recommend the D800 to users, this is the model Nikon really anticipated the wider user base to flock to.

The D800E is an ideal camera for photographers who can very precisely control their shooting situations (i.e. studio and commercial setups). This involves control over the lighting, a steady camera (often with the use of a tripod), the ability and desire to photograph with middle f/stops (roughly f/5.6 to f/11), photographing only in RAW (NEF) file formats and a post-processing workflow that allows for the removal of moiré and false colors. If you think that's you, go for the D800e, otherwise go with the D800.

Both can yield museum quality 24x36" prints and larger depending on the quality of the file. This is the first full-frame DSLR who's quality has been compared to that of a medium format digital system.

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Yes, the Kodak SLR/N model would be a similar comparison in that it also lacked the Low Pass Filter and had moire issues as a result, and thus was more widely used for studio/landscape work where one has control over the subject and lighting characteristics (so as to avoid compositions where moire was more likely to occur).

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Both model cameras have excellent sharpness and image quality, however the D800e model is ideal for situations where ultimate sharpness and detail are needed (keeping in mind that more work in post process would be required for it to achieve that potential. If video is your main use for the camera the D800e is not optimal as there is no means of removing the moire patterns in post process (due to its lack of the Optical Low Pass Filter).

The D800e is ideal for studio work, landscape work and any other situation where the photographer has control of the subject matter and lighting situations. If your shooting sports or events or weddings etc, the D800e would not be as useful due to the constant variance in subject matter and composition. Overall the D800 (non-E) is the recommended model for most photographers.

Your post didn't indicate if you had just recently placed your order for the camera or whether you have received it already. If you have only placed your order and are reconsidering, you can contact our Customer Service Dept at cs@bhphotovideo.com. If you have received the camera already, our normal return policies dictate that you have 30 days from the date it ships out to you to return/exchange the camera with us (the camera cannot have taken more than 200 actuations/shutter firings). If you have had the camera past 1 month or have taken more than 200 actuations with it, you could opt to trade it in for credit towards a new D800 and then place a new order for the D800.

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The Nikon D800 would be recommended for outdoor photography and wildlife usage, and would work similarly to the D300 you currently own.

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one of two things. Either you do not have a good fiandutoon in basic photography and/or either your friends or a salesman has fed you a line based upon opinion, not experience.And NO, the Nikon SB-600 will not fully function on a Canon camera. First because Canon lacks the radio control system that operates the Nikon SB-600 and SB-800 flash units and secondly because the trigger voltage on the Nikon flash is 12v . twice the voltage the Canon uses without the risk of damage to the Canon's electronics. High trigger voltages void the warranty on any DSLR.

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The benefit of Nikon keeping the F-mount is all lenses you currently own will fit the Nikon D800. If they are full-frame lenses, they will fit your camera, but appear much wider than it does on the D90. If you own DX lenses, they will fit and work in DX crop mode on the D800, but it will crop the image sensor down to 15.4 megapixels. The camera will have better low-light performance compared to the D90, as it is more similar to the D7000's low-light performance. The camera will be slightly faster compared to the D90, and the file size will be much larger due to the higher resolution, so you may need to invest in larger memory cards and larger storage capacity for the images. The D800 does have many more focusing points and is much faster at achieving autofocus. In regards to exposure bracketing, the D90 could shoot up to 3 framed bracket set up to one full f-stop apart; the D800 can shoot up to 7 frames up to one full f-stop apart. As well as the SD and SDHC cards used by the D90, the D800 also excepts the 64GB and larger SDXC memory cards and CompactFlash cards. The battery life is better on the D800, and the camera is weather-sealed, unlike the D90. The D800 will also be compatible with the USB 3.0 system, which, with compatible devices, can be up to 10x faster than USB 2.0. The D800 would also have more custom functions available in the camera, and would also use Nikon's more professional accessories, using their 10-pin connector system. As it is still a Nikon camera, the controls and interface will be similar, so while there may be a slight learning curve, you should not have a problem transitioning to the D800 from the D90.

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The image quality of a lens will not change from camera to camera. However in this instance you would be mounting an APS-C format lens onto a Full-frame format camera which has a bigger sensor. When doing this the D800 will crop its sensor size down to that of the APS-C format, and will decrease its pixel count down to 15mp. For that matter its really not worth using the lens on the D800..your better off keeping it on your D7000 or buying a lens such as a 17-35mm f2.8 for the D800.

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The D800E is meant for those who must have the ultimate in sharpness possible in this format.  However, the D800E,  if not handled careully,  can introduce unattractive moire patterns. Therefore it requires extra care in lighting and attention to any patterns being photographed. Then in processing, extra attention must be given to eliminating any remaining moire patterns.

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If you use either Aperture-Priority or Manual mode, the apeture of the camera will be whichever aperture you select.  The Nikon D800 can take up to nine (9) shots in increments from 1/3-stop to 1 full stop.  Nikon has a Time Lapse mode built into the D800 allowing you to choose the interval time and the shooting time while the camera performs the rest of the work with the settings you select.  You would have to contact Nikon directly by calling 1-800-645-6687 and inquiring about the length and limitations of mirror lockup.  While the D800 does have mirror lockup, it does not state or list a particular exposure count, and this would have to be addressed to Nikon Technical Support. 

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You can use the Nikon D800/D800E, along with most all current/discontinued Nikon DSLR cameras for astrophotography.  While Canon has been more proactive for releasing cameras specifically designed for astrophotography, such as the Canon EOS 20Da, released in 2005, or the Canon 60Da, announced/released earlier this year, in which they have improved the hydroden-alpha sensitivity that occurs at the 656.5nm wavelength (and I know of no Nikon cameras touted with this attribute), both Nikon and Canon cameras can be used for astrophotography and normal daytime photography.  (For the record, the Canon EOS 5D Mark II does not have the improved hydrogen-alpha sensitivity as the 20Da and 60Da, and would perform more similarly to the Nikon cameras without the extra sensitivity).  As the current generation of DSLR cameras are much better in regards to handling low-light noise, I would recommend either of the cameras to work for your needs.  In photographic astronomy circles, there are more software vendors that cater to and have earlier support for Canon cameras due to Canon's earlier specialized implementation of cameras, although they have begun to have more support for Nikon DSLR cameras as of late. 

At the end of the day, it will depend more on your expertise and technique and post-production (shooting in RAW is highly recommended) to get the best images, but cameras from both brands are sufficient, with the exception of the Canon EOS 20Da and 60Da, which are more specifically designed for your stated needs.  While I have not received confirmation if the alteration to the Nikon D800E's Optical Low-Pass Filter will increse the sensitivity in capteruing red emission nebulae, there are a few images online that have been taken by owners of the D800 and D800E for astrophotography.  While I think both cameras will suffice for astrophotography, with the D800E, you will run the same caveat of obtaining moire and false color for your stated normal daytime stuff, depending on what you are photographing.  However, as most items in outer space is not based on repeating patterns, there should not be an issue for astrophotography.  Both the D800 and the Canon 5D Mark II should be able to equally be used for both normal daytime stuff and astrophotography, with similar results (though I would hypothesize that there may be a slight  performance difference with Canon's image quality due to the larger individual pixel size and low light performance - however, only side-by-side testing will tell definitively).

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Due to the fact you state you shoot in all types of conditions and shooting scenarios, and as the D800E is designed for specialty controlled shooting scenarios or for photographers used to using larger medium-format digital cameras without anti-aliasing low-pass filters, I would recommend the standard D800 for your stated shooting needs.

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Thanks for the advice. Still trying to decide on best "bang for the bucks."

At 12+ megapixels, would the D700 (full-frame) get me better large prints than my current D300 (DX)?

Or would D7000, a DX model at 16+ megapixels ( and cheaper) work better? I know good glass will also make a difference in results.

Again, thanks. 

JC

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As all current Nikon DSLR cameras still use the standard Nikon F-mount bayonet lens mount system, includingthe Nikon D300, all lenses that fit the Nikon D300 will fit the Nikon D800.  As with all cameras, using the best lenses possible will yield the best results.  This is especially true with the increase of the sensor's resolution.  That is not to state you cannot use the entry level or third-party lenses on the camera; it simply means you obtain the best optical performance from both the lens and the sensor when using the best lenses you can afford (such as the Zeiss lens you own).  Also note, while the NIkon D3200 does have an increase in resolution, the resolution increase is made on a sensor that is smaller than the full-frame sensor in the D800, also meaning each individual pixel is smaller and not gathering light as efficiently as the D800's full-frame sensor.  Whle the D800's resolution has been increased, the individual pixels are almost identical in size to the Nikon D7000's pixels on its 16.2 MP sensor, which is why Nikon touts both cameras as having similar low-light performance and similar high ISO noise, as the individual pixels are the same size.  The pixels in the D3200 are smaller, which would have a different look in low lighting situations, especially if you must use noise reduction with higher ISO settings.  If you typically shoot at low ISO settings and/or have a good noise workflow, then the D3200 can present itself as an economical alternative to the D800; however, the results would not be identical simply because the resolution has increased.  Also note, the sensor size difference will create a different viewing angle/perspective for your lens.  As you are currently using the D300, the D3200 has the same size sensor, so the 25mm lens you own will look like a 37.5mm lens on a full-frame camera; the 25mm lens will look like a 25mm lens on the D800, so you will have a wider angle of view compared to what you currently have.  I hope the above helps with your decision.

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Hello,

My guess is like with fabric, anything with a pattern say an Emperor Angelfish for example may show moiré patterens.

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Hello -

We believe the "e" represents "enhanced"  - as in enhanced sharpness.

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lol you typed it so right.

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No, it does not.

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Honestly, I still see moiré being hard to correct due to the nature of what moiré is... It is false information that occurs due to how an analog item is sampled and converted into a digital form.  Moiré and aliasing can occur with both images and even with musical transfers sampled at a rate slightly different from the original signal, which creates unnatural harmonic tones that must be filtered out, just as visually aliasing creates unnatural visual patters and false color that does not exist in the original product.  As you mention, scanners are prone to aliasing, depending on the resolution you choose when importing your work, patterns on the image on the film, and the angle in which it is scanned and converted to digital.  Thinking moiré is something that can simply be "fixed in post" by people who have not experienced it is the reason we wrote the above article, as more people concentrated on the extra sharpness given by the D800E and ignored the moiré issue.  This is why I've stated that unless you have dealt with moiré in the past and know how to correct for it, or unless you mainly shoot in controlled environments in which you can manipulate the lighting, camera positioning, steadiness of the camera, and so forth, then the D800 would be just as good as a camera, as they are identical except in regards to the Optical Low Pas Filter's orientation which gives better sharpness.  However, software fixes normally use a combination of blurring, contrast changes, and color changes to adjust for moiré, and the blurring part negates the extra $300.00 paid for the D800E if you purchased it thinking the images were inherently going to be much sharper simply because the camera was more expensive and slightly altered. 

In response to your inquiry about the similarities to the previous software you have used to correct moiré and the software Nikon has created in Capture NX2 to deal with moiré, unfortunately, I have not had a chance to see the new Nikon software at work and I cannot say fully how it fares, and without using the software you originally used (it was not named above), I cannot compare the two directly.  I am sure as more D800 and D800E cameras are shipped, we will start to see more testing and results between the cameras, but until then, I cannot state how it will compare with your previous software.  As you have shot large format photography, which does involve in controlling your environment, and you have both converted/scanned negatives into digital files and have dealt with moiré, I would say the D800E is still a good candidate for your style of work, as you can also simply look through your archives and view the images you had issues with moiré with, and see what moiré presented itself on and know when shooting these items, simply watch out and be aware of the possibility, and if possible, shoot tethered so you can view the images at 100% and correct on the fly instead of correcting in post.   Without digressing, I hope that answered your inquiry.  Good luck in your endeavors.

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You are correct.  For the style of shooting you describe, I would recommend the D800 for your needs.  As you currently have the D700, you will not have to alter your shooting style at all, and you will still gain all the improvements the Nikon D800 brings to the table.  I think you will be very satisfied with your choice, and I wish you the best in your photographic endeavors.

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Nikon states that in the Nikon Capture NX2 software there will be a way to correct the false color moiré in images.  Otherwise, you will have to use the standard blurring, brightness, contrast, and color adjustments found in the post-processing photo software of your choice to manally adjust for moiré and false color issues.

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I agree with your reasoning.  From the few things you have mentioned I would put you in the category of someone who likely is a good candidate for the D800E model.  The manner in which you shoot with your large format cameras is basically the same type of work approach that is recommended for the D800E.

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All of the cameras listed above (with the exception of the Leica M9) are usually used in studio photography or under controlled environments, and usually are shooting in studio environments or using controlled or strobe lighting (which assists in freezing the subject and movement), which are the same situations the Nikon D800E is designed to be used under.  That is not to say the cameras are never hand-held or use natural lighting; it is simply stating the norm these cameras are used in, and they are used by photographers who have dealt with, and learned to compensate or overcome moiré and false color issues.

To get to the heart of your question, the difference between these cameras come to sensor size, resolution, and more importantly, individual pixel size/pitch and their arrangement on the image sensor.  With the exception of the Leica M9, the above camera backs (Hasselblad, Leaf, Mamiya, Phase One) all have a sensor surface size over twice the size of the full-frame 35mm sensor in the D800E.  While these cameras have higher megapixel counts, due to the size of the sensor, the individual pixels are much larger than the pixels on the D800E.  Hasselblad's 50MP digital back has a pixel pitch of 6 microns; the Mamiya Leaf Aptus-II 12 Digital Back (80MP) has a pixel pitch of 5.2 microns; the 18MP Leica M9, which uses the same size 35mm full-frame sensor as the D800E (but lower resolution) has a pixel pitch of 6.9 microns.  The D800E's pixel pitch is 4.7 microns.  While all cameras without an anti-alisiang filter can cause moire and false color, the sample rate used at the smaller individual pixel size makes the sensor more susceptible to diffraction, moiré, aliasing, and false colors.  However, the same techniques used to reduce or eliminate moiré and false color applies to all above cameras.

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You're thinking is on the right track, just needing a slight nudge, so to speak.  As I've stated earlier, the D800 and the D800E are essentially the exact same camera in every regard and specifiation with the exception of the Optical Low-Pass Filter in the D800E, and that singular change gives you the benefit of slightly increased sharpness (as the OLPF is not slightly blurring the image).  Gained sharpness is the main benefit of the change with the D800E; the downside is increased occurance of moiré and false color, items that require finesse before shooting and/or increased workflow in post-production.  Otherwise, the two cameras are identical.  Remember that point.

That being said, and jumping to the bottom of your message and putting aside moiré and false color issues, results from the two cameras would be virtually identical, with increased sharpness noticed when using proper shooting technique.  At f/2.8, if proper shooting techniques are used (solid tripod, reducing camera movement, etc.), the "in-focus" focus plane of the image will still be sharper than with the D800; with inproper technique, the results between the cameras should be more similar in appearance, negating the benefit of the clarity promoted by the D800E.  As we have put aside the only negative difference between the cameras, and all other aspects of the cameras are identical, your results would be similar using regular technique, and you would get improved clarity and sharpness using all the tehchniques at your disposal to create the optimal image. It is not that the D800E would perform worse than the D800; you would simply have paid $300.00 more to get the same quality as the D800 (still ignoring moiré and false color).  If we stop ignoring moiré and false color, then you are paying more for the D800E to get similar results AND increasing your workflow by worrying about the effects of moiré and false color.  That is the message we are trying to convey.  As the point of purchsing the D800E is for the benefit of the increase in sharpness, the recommendations for the camera's optimum use is to assist in obtaining the sharpest possible file; otherwise, you would have similar image quality with the D800 with a financial savings and no changes to your current workflow.

As stated, you seem to have a good grip on the logic, just needing a slight nudge on the right path.  For your stated shooting style, while the D800E may not be the best camera for sports (especially with some of the material used in some jerseys), for all other items you mentioned, the D800E may very well be the right camera for your needs.  I would just caution to understand more on moiré and false color, and realize you may not notice them until you view your image at 100% maximum magnification, which is why most photographers using cameras with altered/bypassed/removed Optical Low-Pass Filters usually shoot in controlled environments and shoot tethered, so they can see their image on a larger screen and check (and correct) for moiré during the shooting process.  For the sake of the above arguement, it is okay to ignore moiré and false color, but do not forget about it.  Otherwise, happy shooting!

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I have same questions. Would B & H or/and Nikon answer this question?

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While the Nikon D800E can be used for HDR photography, the D800 may be the better choice, depending on your subject and shooting situations.  As the D800E is a speciatly camera, it works best under certain conditions, whereas the D800 would perform similar to the camera you are most likely currently using for HDR photography, simply with higher resolution and autofocus power.  If you typically shoot your HDR images using middle apertures (around f/8 - f/11), using Nikon's professional-grade fast glass, using a heavy tripod to reduce vibrations, using Mirror Lockup or Live View to reduce blurring from the recoil of the internal mirror, and you can control your lighting, then the D800E could be used.  If any of the above is not the case, however, then the benefits of the sharper in-camera image is negated as not following the above can cause blur that effectively removes the benefit of the sharpness you paid for.

In response to your inquiry about the shutter speed range you typically need for your HDR series shots, you could use a higher ISO setting to increase the shutter speed range of your HDR sequence, but this may cause amplified noise to appear in the image.  To obtain the most sharpness, it is also recommended to either have the High ISO NR set to OFF or LOW, which would then cause you to increase your workflow to include reducing or eliminating high ISO noise during post-processing.

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First of all, no one really says analog. That's just a lame, fad term that hipsters started using after digital cameras became popular. If you mean film, then say film photography or simply FILM.I use almost entirely film for my pictures now, and for several reasons. For one thing, it's just a lot more fun and challenging to use film. Also, I can get much better quality pictures with a film camera with manual exposure than the cheap point and shoot digital cameras that most people use. Another reason is because film has much better archival properties. My parents still have the original negatives from pictures that they took when I was a kid in the 80 s and 90 s. I can get re-prints of the pictures right now, and they will look as good as the day they were taken.A little over a year ago, I learned how to develop my own black and white film and prints. I set up a darkroom in the garage. My mom has a bunch of old negatives from when she was young, in the 50 s and 60 s, and she asked me to develop the pictures from them. They came out great. After 40 or 50 years, the pictures still came out. Now does anyone really think that digital images are going to last that long? Hard drives fail. CD's suddenly stop working. Some of the CD-R's that I burned about 10 years ago, when I first started using recordable CD's a few of them have already stopped reading. I've tried them on several different computers and they won't read. Thank God I didn't have anything really important on them.If you really want to save your photographic memories, then you HAVE to get them printed. Wouldn't it be a shame if one day you lost all those pictures of your family and friends? Sure, you can keep transferring your image files to new hard drives, CD's, flash drives, whatever. But there's always a chance that you'll forget something. Then years later, you'll find a CD stuffed behind a couch or something and you'll try to open it oops, it doesn't read! Any pictures on it are gone. No thanks. I love computers and I've been around modern technology my whole life. But for my really important photographic memories, I use FILM and I get real prints made. (That means REAL silver halide photographic prints, NOT ink jet!) And then I keep my pictures in acid-free, archival photo albums.By the way, you CAN get real (silver halide) photographic prints made from digital files. So I recommend everyone to do that, whether you use film or digital.

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To answer your question, yes, all previous Nikon DSLR cameras use the same anti-aliasing and anti-moire technology that is used in the D800, using the Optical Low-Pass Filter design shown in the first image in the above.  Paraphrasing what Nikon has stated on their website, for the vast majority of photographers who shoot a wide variety of subjects, shoot hand-held as well as with a tripod, use a selection of NIKKOR lenses and shoot at all aperture settings, the D800 and its 36.3MP using the OLPF will be the ideal choice.  For a few specific types of photographers—studio, commercial and still life—who have used medium or large format cameras and have working knowledge of dealing with moiré and false color, the D800E would be a better option.  Wildlife photography varies in lighting conditions, causing you to use a larger range of apertures, ISO settings, and shutter speed settings to obtain a proper exposure, all while photographing moving wildlife in their habitat.  You are not controlling your environment; you are controlling the camera settings based on the decisions you make in the environment in which you are photographing.  As such, the D800 would be the camera recommended for your needs. 

To quickly address your comment about [QUOTE] "who wants to sacrifice image sharpness under any circumstances?" [END QUOTE], as previously stated, all previous Nikon DSLR cameras use the same anti-aliasing and anti-moire technology that is used in the D800, therefore, by no fault of your own, you have always sacrificed some sharpness, which is a reason sharpening is a necessary part of digital photography workflow, both in RAW file conversion, and often as the last step before finally saving the image file.  You must understand, however, the "sacrifice" of sharpness has gained you an image file usually free of false color and moiré, saving minutes to hours of post-editing time.  As many photographers who shoot in controlled situations use medium or large format cameras that did not have an optical low-pass filter, they are used to the extra workflow and know tricks using distance, shooting angle, and camera rotation to eliminate moiré/false color.  These are not adjustments you normally would want to think of and make in the field when shooting something as responsive (not controlled) as wildlife photography.  The D800 would be my choice for your needs.

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You can still record video with the D800e, the important point to consider is if you do shoot in an environment or deal with subject matter that will cause the moire effect, that you would not be able to remove or edit the effect out in post production.  Most users purchasing either for video would be best advised not to consider the D800E.

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As both cameras largest native resolution is 36.3 megapixels, or 4912 x 7360, both have more than enough native resolution to print to the sizes you state above.  At 300 DPI with no interpolation, you could print a 16.4 x 24.5-inch  print, and at 200 DPI with no interpolation, you could print a 24.6 x 36.8-inch print.  Therefore, both cameras have the necessary resolution for your needs.  As you state you will be shooting at f/16 - f/32, I would recommend the standard Nikon D800, not the Nikon D800E.  The D800E works best at mid-apertures, or apertures usually aund 3 stops down the lens' maximum aperture, normally around f/8 - f/11, depending on the lens.  As using small apertures similar to f/16 - f/32 most often cause diffraction, which reduces sharpness, it in turn negates the entire reason of purchasing the D800E, which is to increase sharpness. 

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As I have stated in earlier replies, I do not recommend the D800E for wildlife photography, simply because to obtain the slight increase in sharpness, you must be able to control your shooting situation, have a stable platform to shoot on (good tripod/VR lenses), control your working distance in relation to your subject, use the best optics available from Nikon, and use the middle aperture ranges on the lenses.  WIth wildlife photography, as you are shooting in different conditions, you may need to use different aperture settings that do not fall into the middle ranges that give you the benefit of sharpness you purchased the D800E to obtain.  Also, you may want to purposely shoot with a wider aperture to separate your subject from the background, or you may not be able to slightly adjust your shooting angle, especially if you are tracking an animal you cannot get too close to.   The D800 would be my recommendation for your stated needs.

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While the D800E can be used for portratiure, I would recommend the standard D800 for your shooting needs for a few reasons.  Although you state you shoot in RAW, which is a good thing and highly recommended, 1) You are not shooting in controlled situations; 2) You are shooting children, who can sometimes be unpredictable (depending on the age braket); and 3) The children will be wearing clothing, which certain patterns, weaving, and/or materials can be supseptible to moiré and false color.  Some of the reasons most studio photographers use medium format cameras without low-pass filters is because they can control the lighting and environment, they know how to look for moiré and how to correct for it with camera angle/tilt/distance, and they are usually shooting tethered.  A big reason for tethered shooting is it is hard to see moiré on your LCD screen (or in general) unless the image is viewed at 100% magnification.  As such, if you shoot children, hand-holding, movement, and aperture selection can reduce the apparent gained sharpness the D800E is to offer, and you may not notice moiré unless you are pausing between shots to review and enlarge your images to look for moiré, which would interrupt the flow of your shooting session (or if ignored, would require more post-production work in trying to remove the moiré artificats).  So although you are shooting in RAW, as you are not shooting in a controlled environment, my recommendation would be the D800.

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I shoot portraits too.  And I ordered the 800E.  I have shot children professionally as well.  And they are a handful.  Always changing expressions and moving their bodies and hands about. If you are shooting natural light, combined with faster shutter speeds - to compensate for children's perpetual movement, FOM (fear of moire) will require you to double check your work constantly at high magnification in the LCD.  And even then, there's no guarantee it won't show up after you upload.

I am now shooting only adults.  In my own studio setting with multiple strobes.  On a tripod with chromakey.  Sometimes natural light.  But it's pretty controlled.  I am also a heavy post production person: photoshop, lightroom, nx. Since I am a lifelong medium format (6x7) and large format (8x10) photographer, it means I will only need 2-3 good shots out of a session, as oppose to the machine gun approach by digital rambos.

I would go with the 800 if you are shooting children.  If you haven't seen extreme detail (meaning pores at a near molecular level - 8x10 low speed film with APO schneider lenses) the difference in sharpness between the 800 and 800E is not worth the headache when Moire does show up.

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If your order consisted only of the D800E and you're swapping to the D800 you will not lose your spot in the queue. If your D800E order also included other in-stock items which we've shipped we may have to jigger your order to retain your spot. Please be specific when talking to customer service. We will certainly do whatever we can to retain your spot no matter what the particulars of your transaction happen to be.
 -- Henry Posner / B&H Photo-Video

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The D800 and the D800E are essentially the exact same camera in every regard and specifiation with the exception of the Optical Low-Pass Filter in the D800E, and that singular change gives you the benefit of slightly increased sharpness (as the OLPF is not slightly blurring the image).  Gained sharpness is the main benefit of the change with the D800E; the downside is increased occurance of moiré and false color, items that require finesse before shooting and/or increased workflow in post-production.  Otherwise, the two cameras are identical.  Remember that point.

That being said, as the ONLY benefit is a slight increase of sharpness, to gain the benefit of the extra sharpness, there are certain shooting recommendations to get the most sharpness from the camera.  If anything causes a blur or softens the image, the sharpness benefit (and the extra $300.00 in price) is negated.  Yes, you are correct that shooting on a tripod or hand-holding at speeds above 1/125th of a second (which varies, depending on the lens you are using) is good advice for both cameras.  However, where not using a tripod or hand-holding at slower speeds is not a deal-breaker with the D800, not doing the same with the D800E and introducing blur negates the benefit and $300.00 cost of the camera, as you no longer see the extra sharpness you paid for. 

Remember, the cameras are the same in all other regards, so if you take away the sharpness benefit, you're essentially getting a similar image as produced by the less-expensive D800, which is why it is even more-so recommended for the D800E to use good shooting techniques.  In addition, you would still have to deal with any occuring moire that would have been taken care of by the OLPF in the D800; essentially creating more work at more of an expense to you.  The following below is taken from the D800/D800E Technical Guide listed on Nikon's website:

"While its high pixel count of 36 megapixels gives the D800/D800E resolution unrivalled by previous digital SLR cameras, a side eff ect is that bokeh and blur are made that much more obvious. Realizing the full potential of a camera with over 30 million pixels involves a thorough appreciation of bokeh and blur, careful selection of settings and of tools (such as lenses and tripods), and working with the best possible subjects."  (page ii)

"The superior resolution of the D800/D800E makes small amounts of focus blur more obvious. Select a shutter speed slightly faster than you would choose when photographing the same subject with other cameras."  (page 9)

We are not debating that using a tripod and hand-holding at faster shutter speeds is not good information for both cameras; we are simply pointing out that it is in your best interest to get your money's worht and fully recognize the increased sharpness of the D800E by using good technique.  Otherwise, it is more economical and easier on your workflow and current shooting style to simply go with the D800 and save $300.00.

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I have same questions, any one can answer this?

Also why Middle apertures should be used ??

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Hello,

In my opinion,  Nikon is cautioning end users againt anything that can cause a decrease in image quality. Using my Rollieflex along side my D5000 you see what we take for granted using a DSLR's. I regularly shoot at a 1/30th of a second with my SLR's or M6. I've learned to avoid this practice with the Rollie. It picks up details that I did not see on the ground glass and I suspect the D800E having the high resolution capture capabilities will yeild similar results.

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So for landscape photos.....you are suggesting the D800 or the D800E ?  Portraits out of the studio have varying lighting so the D800 would be optimum from what I am reading.

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Agreed. :)

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