Rollei Infrared 4x5" Black and White Negative (Print) Film - 25 Sheets

Rollei Infrared 4x5" Black and White Negative (Print) Film - 25 Sheets

Rollei Infrared 4x5" Black and White Negative (Print) Film - 25 Sheets

B&H # ROIR4525 MFR # 8104100
Rollei Infrared 4x5" Black and White Negative (Print) Film - 25 Sheets

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  • 1Description

The Rollei Infrared film is well suited for experimental, creative applications, and for scientific photography. Perfect exposures can be reached, using special infrared filters, leading into results with an unusual tonal range.

High speed panchromatic b&w film material with special infrared sensitivity
Large exposure latitude and a high exposure reserve for application under all lighting and climatic conditions
Special coating for improvement of film transport properties of the cameras
Suitable for daylight and tungsten light conditions
Table polyester base support guarantees the highest level of archive stability (LE 500)
The large contrast power, in addition of very fine grain and excellent sharpness, is the basis for negatives of excellent quality
Excellent resolving power, very fine grain and high sharpness
Especially suited for digital application for scanning - special halation effects (AURA effect) by longer exposure times
In the Box
Rollei Infrared 4x5" Black and White Negative (Print) Film - 25 Sheets
  • 25 x Sheets of film
  • Table of Contents
    • 1Description
    Film Size (W x H) 4 x 5" / 101.6 x 127 mm
    Film Type B&W Infrared
    Film Processing Standard Black and White Chemistry
    Film Speed ISO 400
    Quantity 25 Sheets
    Packaging Info
    Package Weight 0.3 lb
    Box Dimensions (LxWxH) 6.6 x 4.5 x 0.7"
    Infrared 4x5" Black and White Negative (Print) Film - 25 Sheets is rated 4.8 out of 5 by 4.
    Rated 4 out of 5 by from Use with Hoya R72 filter... Recent years have witnessed all IR films, one after another, being discontinued, except for Rollei Infrared. Properly used, Rollei Infrared can render broadleaf foliage and grass light gray, or even white, if the foliage is directly lit by sunlight; and without changing the gray scale of other colors in the scene. This sought-after rendering is called the Wood effect, after Robert W. Wood, who first described it. If you want to try Infrared (and you should), where do you start? Rollei's own literature isn't much help: Speed ISO 400 (for 720nm) - (*misleading) Push/Pull Not specified - film must be tested Filtration? No suggestions at all, and filtration is critical! *Should say ISO 400 - UNFILTERED ISO 0.125, most often ISO 3 - (for 720nm) Yes, you can leave the filter off, and shoot Rollei Infrared as a conventional ISO 400 b&w film. The 720nm refers to an IR filter with peak transmission at 720 nanometers (near-infrared). Defacto standard - Hoya R72 Well, in one sense, they've got a point. Infrared can be used for scientific, experimental or creative effects. Each might require its own filtration, and Infrared doesn't always respond to filtration in intuitive ways. To complicate things, your light meter doesn't respond to light in the same way Infrared does. So yes, the film must be tested for each application. But it's still frustrating trying to get started. Starting Point: If you want to try for the Wood effect, here's a place to start. Get some Rollei Infrared, and a Hoya R72 filter. Find a scene dominated by vigorously growing, moisture- and chlorophyl-bearing broad-leaf foliage (not an evergreen forest), in full sunlight, at noon, middle of the summer. Set up your camera on a tripod. Frame and focus. Meter the scene. Your meter, set at ISO 400, will show something like 1/500 sec. between f/11 and f/16. Attach the R72 filter. It's nearly opaque; that's why you must use a tripod, and frame and focus before you put it on. For the filter factor, add seven stops to your exposure. That will land you at 1/4 sec between f/11 and f/16. Take the picture. The film can be processed in any conventional b&w chemicals. Development time will be in the range of conventional ISO 400 films. Okay, that's a starting point. Here are some tips you might find helpful. Keep copious notes of every shot, and make sure you can keep each shot with its notes. Without notes, you'll find a frame that was successful, and not remember what you did to get that look. You should start out bracketing your exposures -- -1 / normal / +1 at the least. Better would be -2 / -1 / normal / +1 / +2 for your first run. After developing and viewing, you'll see which direction you should head on successive runs. Some lenses focus infrared at a different point than visible light, some don't. If your lens has a red mark (infrared focus point) on the barrel near infinity, after focusing, grip the focusing ring with your thumbnail opposite infinity, then rotate the focusing ring so your thumbnail is opposite the red mark. If your lens doesn't have the red mark, shoot without any focus adjustment. If you're shooting a camera with bellows (view-, field-, or press-camera), you're on your own. Neither the camera nor the lens will help you. You can try to research your lens, and see if there's anything published about focus in infrared light. You can run your own tests by shooting a 45-degree inclined yard stick, focusing on the middle, and seeing what is really in focus on the developed film, then making measurements on your camera, and massaging that into a reference table to carry with your camera kit. The procedure above keeps the f-stop above f/11 to maximize depth of field, and help with the possibility of infrared focus shift. If you're shooting a large format camera, you can bump the f-stop a lot higher (and the exposure time a lot slower), as you're used to doing with conventional film. When testing, shoot Infrared alongside a conventional b&w film. If you're shooting 35mm, two camera bodies would be easiest. A larger camera with interchangeable film magazines, or a sheet film camera make it easy to shoot two emulsions side-by-side, shot-by-shot. Print or scan the negatives. It is VERY instructive to see the positive images (not the negatives) conventional vs infrared, side by side. If you don't do this, you may look at the infrared negatives, and say Huh? They look like b&w negatives.... If you do this, you'll flip between the conventional b&w, and the infrared positives, and say, WOW! So THAT'S the difference!. If you did everything right, it is. A Hoya R72 filter is the defacto standard for this kind of infrared shooting. It blocks most visible light up to 660nm, and passes most light above 720nm. Other 720nm filters are available, but may or may not be as effective. If your filter doesn't match the Hoya, your results won't match either. The filter needs to be blocking almost all light up to 660nm, and passing almost all light at 720nm and above for this to work. If you feel you should get an 820 or 900, thinking that more is better, don't. Rollei Infrared is only sensitive up to about 820nm, and a filter that only starts to pass at 820nm will leave you with unexposed, clear film. One disclaimer here: I can't know what light meter you're using, I can't know if you're using a Hoya R72, an equivalent, or a different filter. I can't know if you're shooting at the equator, or 60 degrees latitude. Infrared is different. That's why it's cool.
    Date published: 2015-07-20
    Rated 5 out of 5 by from Awesome film to work with It's great to still have some infrared sheet film available in 2014, and this one is seems to be the sharpest one ever produced, although not quite as dramatic as the discontinued kodak HIE stuff.
    Date published: 2014-03-24
    Rated 5 out of 5 by from Rollei 4x5 infrared Use to shoot infrared and semi-infrared portraits and landscapes. Learning to do this with a view camera (previously shot mostly 120). Consistent film.
    Date published: 2015-10-13
    Rated 5 out of 5 by from Great IR film Landscapes
    Date published: 2016-03-23
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