The Basics of Hand-Coloring Black-and-White Prints   


The practice of hand-coloring black-and-white photographs can be traced all the way back to the days of daguerreotypes, which predates Instagram creative filters by about 180-plus years. In a bid to add life to the putty-like tonality of many of the earliest print technologies, photographers would very carefully brush thin layers of color pigments mixed with gum arabic (or quicker-drying mixtures containing alcohol) onto the cheeks, hair, and outerwear of portrait sitters. With the advent of paper print processes and tintypes, the use of transparent photo oils, dyes, and pencils became the media of choice for bringing color to black-and-white photographs.

Commercial applications of hand-coloring also found their way into use early on. Toward the end of the 19th Century and the beginning of 20th Century, color lithographic postcards of popular tourist attractions and holiday destinations came into vogue, which opened up new avenues for working photographers.

Hand-colored photographs © 2020 Allan Weitz

Before color photography became technically and commercially viable, black-and-white photographs were hand-colored and reproduced by lithographers in the form of postcards, magazine, and brochure illustrations.

What’s interesting is that the vast majority of these “cartes-de-visite,” as they were popularly known, were in fact black-and-white photographs that were colorized by lithographers who had never been to the places they were coloring. The colors were chosen according to the colorist’s whim and personal aesthetics and reproduced as lithographic postcards and souvenir prints. Coloring monochrome photographs remained in vogue until the arrival of the first Kodachrome color slide films, in 1935, which unlike the muted tones of tinted photographs, were bright, bold, and most importantly—accurate. Since that time, hand-coloring has gone in and out of vogue on a regular basis in the fields of advertising, editorial assignments, album art, fine art applications, and for the longest time, portraiture.

Generally speaking, hand-colored photographs have muted color palettes, though bold coloration is doable. Based on personal experience, I strongly recommend using a warm-toned, matte-surfaced print as a starting point, especially for portraiture and landscapes. B&H stocks a wide selection of neutral, warm, and cool-toned cotton and fiber-based medium and double-weight papers in a variety of sheet and roll sizes.

You can hand-color neutral-toned prints, but most people find warm-toned prints more natural looking than neutral or cool-tone prints. This original image of boatbuilder Alvin Beale, of Beales Island, Maine, was a Kodachrome slide, converted to black-and-white using my Franken-Scanner.

Final hand-colored portrait of Alvin Beales in his workshop. Retired from building full-size fishing boats, Beales resorted to building incredibly detailed scale models of his classic lobster boats, well into his late 80s.

In the case of night scenes, a cooler-toned print might be preferable. Neutral-toned prints can also be used but, with few exceptions, I find the look of hand-coloring on neutral-toned prints to be less convincing, and depending on the image, visually jarring, but then again, we’re talking aesthetics here and your thoughts may differ.

It’s also important to note not every picture was born to be colorized. Some images are best represented in black-and-white, while others look strongest in color. For this reason, consider the reasoning behind wanting to colorize an image before committing to it. And if you do not currently have a photograph you’d like to colorize, go out and take a few pictures that would better lend themselves to the process.

Darkroom Paper Choices

My earliest experiences with hand-coloring were pre-digital, and my choices of traditional photographic enlarging paper were wide. Initially, I colored sepia-toned black-and-white prints, but soon began using papers like Agfa Portriga Rapid, which was a lovely, naturally warm-toned paper. On occasion I would also pass Agfa Portriga through a bath of selenium toner, which would slightly cool the paper’s inherent warm-tone finish.

Despite the dominance of digital imaging in today’s marketplace, photographic enlarging paper is still available in a number of surface textures including gloss, matte, semi-matte, luster, metallic, and others. From personal experience, I always preferred using matte or semi-matte cotton and fiber-based enlarging papers for hand-coloring with photo oils because they allow easy color blending and feathering of edge details. I also found these print surfaces to be less susceptible to streak marks from the brushes and cotton swabs used to apply the color media to the print surface.

These are just a few of the dozens of warm-toned photographic papers available at B&H.

One of the advantages of traditional photographic prints is that unlike inkjet prints, in which the image consists of ink droplets lying vulnerably on the print surface, the silver halides that make up traditional photographic print images is within the print emulsion, where it is far less susceptible to scuffs and scratches.

Tip: For best results, photographs you plan on hand-coloring should be printed about 10% lighter than you would normally prefer.

What You Need for Hand-Coloring B&W Prints

Transparent photo oils are available as kits or individual tubes from Marshall's and Pebeo.

Fiber-based prints aside, the only supplies you will need are the following:

  • Transparent Photo Oils Transparent photo oils are available at B&H as kits or individual tubes in a variety of colors from Marshall’s Retouching and Pebeo.
  • Cotton Swabs Use cotton swabs for applying and blending photo oils and make sure they are 100% cotton. The synthetic versions, while fine for cleaning your ears, are not suitable for smoothly blending transparent photo oils on photographic prints.
  • Cotton Balls Cotton balls are for applying photo oils to larger areas. Again, avoid the cheaper synthetics—they don’t work well.
  • Toothpicks and Wood Skewers Toothpicks or wood skewers with smaller swabs of cotton wrapped around their tips can be used to apply or remove photo oils from smaller detailed portions of a print.
  • Kneaded Erasers Kneaded erasers are used for cleaning stray oils from the print surface, which is a common practice when defining edges of a selectively colored portion of a photograph. Clean pencil erasers with pointed edges can be used in a pinch, but the best erasers for these applications are kneaded erasers. Kneaded erasers, which can be purchased in most art supply stores or online, are soft and malleable and, therefore, less likely to mar delicate print surfaces compared to hard erasers.
  • Marshall’s PM Solution / Marshall’s Marlene Marshall’s PM and Marlene solutions are used to clean edges, details such as eyes, and stray brush marks from print surfaces.

The one last thing you might want is a larger sheet of poster board or foam core to which you can tape your print as you work on it and shift it about.

Mess things up? No problem. Marshall’s Marlene and PM Solutions have you covered.

Photo Oils: A Little Goes a Long Way

Transparent photo oils should be applied in a well-lit workplace, preferably daylight-balanced and with plenty of elbow room. Using a clean cotton swab, take a dab of color from the tip of the tube, or in the case of blended colors, your palette, and apply it to the surface of the print in small circular motions, slowly spreading the oils color across the intended area. Use a fresh cotton swab to further spread and smooth the colors across the print surface. For larger areas, use cotton balls for applying and smoothing out any streaking, refreshing them with new cotton balls as needed. Clean cotton swab and cotton balls can also be used to clean up areas you didn’t intend to color.

The best tool for removing small areas of stray paint and clearing details is a kneaded eraser, which like a piece of soft putty, is easy to manipulate and, unlike many conventional erasers, will not mar the surface of the print. Alternatively, you can also use cotton swabs dipped in Marlene or PM Solution to remove or clean small and larger areas of the print.

Entrance to roller coaster in Coney Island circa 1974, photographed with a 4x5 camera with a 90mm f/5.6 lens on Tri-X. The print was sepia-toned and hand-colored using Marshall’s transparent photo oils. See more in the gallery slideshow below.

Something I cannot stress enough is how far a tiny dab of oil paint on the tip of a cotton swab can go. Always start off sparingly—you can always build up the colors. You should also be spare about how much of the image you do color. Here too, a little goes a long way, and our mind’s eye fills in the gaps in more ways than we realize.

An added bonus of using photo oils is that once dried, the oil paints seal the print surface from air and pollutants, which adds to the longevity of the print.

Messed it Up? No Problem. PM Solution to the Rescue!

No matter how good you get at hand-coloring, sooner or later you’re going to mess up a print. Fear not! One of the beauties of photo oils is that you can always clean the paint off the print surface with cotton balls soaked with a bit of Marshall’s Marlene or Marshall’s PM Solution, both of which are available from B&H. Let the print dry down, and you’re good to go for a second (or third) try.

Final Thoughts on Hand-Coloring Black-and-White Prints

Hand-coloring photographs is the opposite of speed-skating. It’s a slow, meditative process that often requires you to take a step or two back along the way before adding the next color. And don’t be surprised if you find yourself completely starting over every now and then. That, too, is part of the creative process.

And remember: You don’t need to know how to draw or paint to hand-color photographs. You don’t even have to know how to draw a straight line. The image pre-exists— all you have to do is fill in the gaps.

The following is a portfolio of hand-colored, black-and-white 4 x 5" photographs of Coney Island and some of my favorite spots along the Jersey Shore, taken in the late 1970s and ’80s.


Coloring B&W prints is a great way to make a print come to life, I have been doing it for over 50 years. I still print in my darkroom and really like the Ilford matt warm-tone papers. I don't use a hardner in the fixing process, makes it easier for the paint to penetrate the image. I use Marshall oils and pencils and even watercolor paints from the small sets that were used by children years ago.  As said in the article, it is an enjoyable and creative process, time-consuming, but you wind up with a one of a kind image. All the tools mentioned in the article are easily obtained and not expensive. Try it, you will like it.

If anyone has any source of information or instruction re hand tinting digital prints I would appreciate it. A helpful hint...if your want to remove everything off your print and start over, brake parts cleaner takes it off and it is cheaper than marlene or pms solution but don't use it on a digital print if you have first treated it with Liquitex.

I hand colored my B&W prints for many years using various materials such as Marshall's Oil paints, watercolor, ink and air brush. The printing papers that worked the best (for me) were the ones that had little to no finish so the paint could be absorbed into the emulsion which gave the prints a radiant glow. When I began printing with an inkjet printer I very much wanted to continue this practice but found that the coatings in all inkjet papers designed to hold the ink were not favorable for having paint or inks applied by hand after printing. I even tried printing on heavy non inkjet stock paper and was unsatisfied with the results. There was something about how the emulsion or the photographic image layer in silver based prints blended with the added color materials I was using that would not replicate in digital prints. Images made with inkjet printers on uncoated papers have a soft quality that I never liked for my work. The added color did not blend but would look a B&W print with color added on top of it. Much of this process does require experimentation and seeing what works for your images and the materials you are using. Hopefully others who are having more success than I will share their insights with you.  

Hey Kirk,

You're correct about inkjet prints. The oils require the consistency, hardness, and surface textures of photographic paper. Question - have you tried any of the newer fiber-based inkjet papers? I haven't but they might be worth a try... or maybe an Explora article!



Bravo. I've been doing it for a long long time, my mother used to tint photographs back in the 40's and 50's; she was also an exceptional watercolor and oil painter. It really added a depth and texture you cannot get with color film or digital. I thought Marshal had gone out of business. I still have a set of their oils, but have not used it for some time. I do not think it a problem to resurrect some of the dried tubes. Oils and the Marshal colored pencils (if they still make them) were a great combo. What I did in the past was shoot B and W (4x5) along with a color 35mm slide (yeah, two cameras) that gave me a kind of color key and point of departure. Never much cared for color print film until I discovered polarizer could kick up color sat. I think digital is great, and I have no problem shooting film and digital. After all it's the photographer not the camera...

AS much as hand painting looks/sounds like fun my preference would be doing the coloration in a proper photo editor (less messy as well). This does inspire me to scan in some older B&W stuff and bring them into PS and see what I can do with them. Thanks for the idea!

Hello Paul,

That's a great idea!  Thanks for the input. 

Stay safe.

FYI... I'm working on the article now...



Thanks! Am going to try this - and love your work that you posted. Yay - a new thing to try

Hello Sherre,

Glad you're enjoying the content.  Stay tuned for more great post daily!

Stay safe,

I loved doing this when I was much younger in the 80s and 90s. I did my sisters' wedding portraits with color and also seed pearls and tiny bits of bling to recreate the dresses. Then digital photography took over, I closed up my darkroom and essentially tried to recreate on-line hand tinting without much success. What paper do you suggest we use to print out our digital photos in order to hand tint them?  Looking forward to your answer, I still have my oils and pencils in a closet.

Regina - The problem is that inkjet papers aren't coated like traditional enlarging paper or any other coated photographic surfaces. You should experiment - if anything, the pencils should work with inkjet surfaces.

Good luck!



If the Strand photo is from Ocean City NJ, I used to climb up inside that sign to repair it while helping my grandfather with his sign business; small limber kid limbs came in useful.  thanks for the article and memories!

Same Strand, same sign, and this photograph was taken off-season around 1974-76.


I did a lot of hand coloring with oils in 1980's and found matte papers were the best. Kodak Liquid Rapid Fixer Solution for Black & White Film and Paper, 1-Gallon, Part "A" & "B". (not the powder) which had a separate bottle of hardener. I used only half the bottle of hardener in the fix and the paper took the oils better. You can also build up color with glazes of oil paint but one needs to wait two weeks for a layer to dry hard. Soft colored art pencils can be used for small details.  I also saved bad prints to practice on and get used to experimenting. Have fun!

I too hand tinted in the 80's and 90's and always used with success Agfa mcc 118 fb paper. Sadly it was discontinued by Agfa but it was used primarily for hand tinting. I didn't use any hardner in the developing process . I still have to set my darkroom up after several moves. I have tried to find a way to hand tint digital ink jet prints and all I have accomplished is a mess! Does anyone have any instructions for digital prints; otherwise, I will have to re-set up my enlarger, get my Agfa 118 out of the freezer and start back with the Marshalls.

Allan, Thanks for such a well written article.  Teaching traditional and alternative methods, We work on a number of methods to colorize a photograph.While we hand color photographic prints (yes, using marshall oils and watercolor/acrylic mixed with matte medium to maintain transparency.  My favorite one with students is printing out a b & w photo (inkjet from their digital photo)and using crushed pastel dust (with q-tips to apply...or your finger!). AND beautiful examples!