Photography / Tips and Solutions

I Just Got a New Camera… What Do I Do?

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You just got a shiny new digital (or film) camera. Of course, you can just pop the battery and a memory card or film in and start shooting, but there are some things you may want to consider before you head out into the world to make art.

1. Charge your battery

It is likely that the rechargeable battery that shipped with your camera is not fully charged. So, throw it on the charger and get it full—when you head out on your first photo shoot you will be able to take more than a handful of shots! Speaking of more shots, you may want to purchase a second battery, just in case. With electronic cameras, no charge means no photos.

2. Get a memory card

Your digital camera likely needs a memory card. If you didn’t get one with the camera, go to bhphotovideo.com and order one right now! A digital camera without digital media is a very expensive paperweight. Some cameras have built-in memory, but you’ll likely want a memory card so you can keep shooting when the internal memory in those cameras fills up. Oh, and your film camera needs film!

3. Read the instruction manual

Yep, I said it. If your camera doesn’t have a paper manual, there is likely a PDF available online. Do you have to read every word and hire a translator to read the foreign language sections? No. But, even if you are an experienced shooter, your new camera likely has some quirks and hidden functions you might not otherwise be aware of. I leave the paper manual at home, but save the PDF copy on my phone in case I need to reference the manual in the field.

4. Format the memory card

Using the knowledge you just gained from the manual, format the card inside your camera before you start shooting. There are a couple of reasons for this. A) You want to have a full memory card to play with, B) sometimes a camera will not read or write to a memory card that has been formatted in another type of camera, and C) formatting resets the file structure and helps prevent data errors. NOTE: Double-check to make sure you have saved whatever images are on that card to another device before you format the card.

5. Update the camera’s firmware

There is a chance that your camera, right out of the box, is not running the latest programming from the manufacturer. Use that instruction manual and the Internet to determine if your firmware can be updated and, if it is not up to date, follow the procedures to update it. These updates usually give the camera more features and performance than you think would be possible with lines of code.

6. Attach the camera strap

There are a few schools of thought on camera straps. Some people use them, some don’t. For years, I was tempted to remove mine, as it always seemed to get in the way and I rarely carried the camera around my neck or shoulder with the strap. But then, one night, I carelessly failed to secure my camera’s quick-release plate onto a tripod head. During a long nighttime exposure, the camera fell off the top of the tripod. With gravity accelerating the camera and lens toward a certain death by concrete, the strap somehow snagged one of the tripod’s flip-locks and the camera, its descent arrested by the strap, began to swing safely, but perilously, above the ground: true story. I won’t ever go strapless again.

7. Bag it

Depending on what kind of camera and accessories you have, you may want to look into getting a camera bag to transport it. Some folks prefer to travel light with only the camera, but if you have an interchangeable-lens camera, you might need something that carries your other lenses and gear. A camera bag might likely be your next purchase if you just got a new camera, and there are many options to explore, based on the size of your camera, lenses, and gear.

8. Keep it clean

See how pristine the camera and lens are when they come out of the box? Take a good look and remember it, because your gear will likely never look that good again. Dust, smudges, and fingerprints are as excited about your newly acquired gear as you are. You’ll want to keep your stuff clean, so invest in a cleaning cloth for your lens and/or camera.

9. Set your settings

In the days of point-and-shoot film cameras, we would pretty much be finished with this conversation by now. However, in the digital world, we have a lot more to think about. It is intimidating. We aren’t going to get into too much detail here, but feel free to follow the hyperlinks on the following list for more information.

a. Set your diopter. Most viewfinders have an optical adjustment, called a diopter, which allows people with different visual acuity to see the viewfinder image clearly. If your viewfinder looks blurry, it is likely because you need to set your diopter to suit your eye, or have your vision checked. Every day, at camera stores around the world, people come in complaining about “broken” cameras due to blurry viewfinders, when all they need to do is set the diopter to accommodate their vision.

b. Image quality. If you are planning on post-processing your images, you might want to set your camera to capture images in the camera’s RAW format. If you aren’t into post processing, or prefer smaller files, I recommend you set your camera to the highest-resolution JPEG that your camera can capture. One thing you do not want to do is go on your first outing and take the greatest picture in the history of photography with your camera set to less-than-full resolution.

c. Familiarize yourself with your camera’s metering modes. This is how the camera measures the light coming into the frame.

d. Learn your camera’s shooting/exposure modes, as well. This tells you how much automation the camera is going to apply to your image taking.

e. The camera will likely default your white balance setting to “AUTO.” This is usually fine, but you should be familiar with white balance and how to adjust for different light sources, if needed.

f. Autofocus makes things easy, but it can be fooled, and you might want to learn how to control and select focus points to better achieve your goals by using different autofocus modes.

g. Many cameras have different “drive” modes. You will be surprised by how many photos you can take and how fast your memory card fills up when shooting 14 frames per second! Unless your first outing with your new camera is a sports event, you might want to set your drive mode to single-shot.

h. An often-overlooked setting on digital cameras is Color Space. This discussion could devolve into a graduate-level thesis but, in general, if you are going to be post-processing your images, you might want to use “Adobe RGB” color space. If you are skipping the post-processing, you might leave your camera set to “sRGB.”

i. Many newer cameras have specialty Picture Modes, such as Toy Mode, Macro Mode, and dozens more. Your camera likely does not default to these modes, but you’ll want to make sure you don’t accidently select one while you’re out shooting.

j. To beep or not to beep? Many of today’s digital cameras (and other electronics) sound like robots from your favorite sci-fi movie series; beeping when they are turned on, take a photo, or simply feel like beeping. If you want to be stealthy when shooting, find the needed menu option and silence your camera.

10. Time

When you turn your camera on for the first time, you’ll likely see a prompt that tells you to set the time and date on the camera, and an option to skip it. In the digital world, files are date/time stamped, including your photos. Even if you do not organize your images by date, you’ll want to tell your camera what time it is. When traveling, try to remember to update for time zone changes. What is my secret (never shared publicly before)? Set your camera for the Universal Time Coordinate time and date and don’t worry about silly things like Daylight Saving Time or crossing time zones.

11. Start saving

One of the great things about (and curses of) cameras is what is called “Gear Acquisition Syndrome,” or GAS. If you are one of those lucky souls who is content to carry a fixed focal length point-and-shoot camera around for all your artistic needs, I am jealous! For the rest of us, we like to accessorize our cameras with some needed and not-so-needed gear. In my opinion, the following items lean toward the “required” category of GAS.

a. Post-processing software. The scourge of digital photography is that, to get the best image from your photographs, you’ll likely need to make digital adjustments to the file. Some cameras come with the company’s software or other commercial software bundled with the camera, so don’t ignore that CD/DVD or associated literature that was in the box.

b. Tripod. Depending on how and what you photograph, a tripod may be the quickest way for you to sharpen your images in-camera.

c. Remote release. If you are working on a tripod, or have your camera resting on a surface to steady it, you’ll want to trigger the camera with a wired or wireless remote trigger.

d. Flash. Built-in camera flashes aren’t known for their power or performance. Adding a dedicated flash to your camera might help you get the shot you want in less-than-desirable lighting situations.

e. UV Filter. Like straps, there are several schools of thought about using clear filters on your lens. I personally recommend them. They will not always save your lens if dropped, but they will protect your optics from fingerprints and dust.

f. Insurance. Even if you didn’t spend your hard-earned cash on your new camera, you should consider getting personal property insurance for your gear. If you have insurance, you might never need it. If you don’t have it, you will probably get to hear me say, “I told you so.”

12. Save the box

Folks used to hold onto film cameras for decades. With the fast turnover of today’s digital cameras, you might get a camera every few years. If you think you will eventually sell the one you just unpacked, having the box and original instructions and accessories can help with the resale value of the camera. Also, if there is any possibility at all of returning the camera to the store, you’ll be glad you saved the box.

13. Read the B&H blog!

Have you finished thumbing through your manual but your battery is still charging? Well, feel free to spend a few more minutes here, at the B&H blog, and the learning portal to learn more about photography and cameras!

14. Last, but not least, get out and shoot!

Battery charged? Card formatted? Time to get off the Internet and away from your computer and go out and make photographs! Oh, and don’t forget to have fun doing that!

Got questions about your new camera? Or, do you have tips for those who just unboxed their new pride and joy? Ask or share in the Comments section, below!

29 Comments

I'm new to photography and specially DSLRs.  I just received a "Nikon D7500 DSLR" this Xmas, which I think is way over my skill set.  Needless to say, this article is very helpful as I have not even open the box!  This article has encouraged me to keep the camera and make the best of it; Rather than return it, or exchange it for a bigginers' camera.  Does anyone here have additional suggestions on how to make it a less overwhelming task?  I really do want to get to the point I enjoy the camera and not feel like I've taken a bigger bite than I can chew.  Thanks!

Hey Andi!

Congrats on getting your new camera! :)

Be patient with your new camera, Andi. The truth is that the differences between a pro digital camera and a "beginners" camera are really not all that much. The pro camera might have more options and a few more buttons that the lower-level cameras, but the basic controls are still the same and, this is the best part, you can set the camera up to perform like a simple point-and-shoot camera. 

You only need to dive into the menus to the extent that you are adjusting things you want to adjust. The list above keeps things pretty simple and covers all of the important tasks.

Remember, just because your camera has the power to do a bunch of customized tasks does not mean you have to employ that capability. As you get started, keep things simple and dip your toes into the pool—you don't have to dive in head first right away!

Let me know if you have some specific questions (or general ones, too) and I will try to help you as best I can. I am glad you found the article helpful, Andi!

GAS, Gear Acquisition Syndrome, is a huge problem! I'm looking for a 70-300 for my 5D III; I'm currently stuck at 24-105mm. There's been situations where I've needed something wider than 24mm; There's also the need for a flash since my Sunpak 522 is not compatible with my 5D; it works with my A-1 and New F-1.  Even though I have a DSLR, I'm still on the lookout for Canon FD lenses. I bought a rare Canon Macrophoto 20mm f3.5 lens from B&H. I haven't told my wife that I want a Mamiya 645, RZ67, and a 4x5 view camera. I've got the tripod for the 35mm cameras.

Hey Ralph,

There are 12-step programs for GAS, but B&H does not recommend any of them. In fact, we fully support GAS and work to provide exemplary customer service to support our customer's habits so that you can get exactly what you need and not overpay!

Thanks for reading!

Do you know when the ST-74X is finally going to be released?

Hey andreas,

Great question. I will check with the company. I have the prototype in hand now. It is AMAZING!

ZERO noise at all ISO. Compatible with every lens ever made. You can switch between a 200MP, 100MP, 50MP, 24MP, 12MP, or 6MP sensor...and shoot film, too...simultaneously! Autofocus faster than anything on the market...in pitch black darkness. 1000 frames per second, and a processor that automatically picks the best frame for you when burst shooting. The camera self-edits your bad shots out, so you only get awesome photos. In camera post-processing that is connected to your brain waves to provide the exact adjustments you would spend hours making on your computer (and it saves the raw file, too). Ergonomically perfect. Weighs next to nothing and the battery lasts for 40 years.

I hope you get to buy one soon!

I don't see anything on this list about insurance or warrantys. What is the general rule of thought for a major purchase? 

Hi Becca,

Good points here. Warranties are manufacturer specific and B&H offers some extended warranties on products as well. They can go a long way towards peace of mind.

As far as insurance, I personally carry a valuable property floater to cover my photography gear. It is not unreasonable and the added protection is great to have for expensive cameras, lenses, lighting, and more. My father is an insurance broker and was always fond of saying, "You cannot have too much insurance."

Thanks for a great question! I feel remiss for not having it on the list now!

Good read!

My only comment is number 3 should have been number 1.

(as lipo batteries are a bit volatile, the guidelines are important)

Hey Jack!

You might have a good point there, but I like to get my battery charging ASAP so that I can go out shooting with my new camera sooner than later.

However, if you are unclear on how to charge the battery, definitely read that portion of the manual first!

Thanks for reading! Any relation to the Jack Wolff who used to write for Explora?

What is the best focus free Camera to have ?

Hey Tammy,

That is a tough question to answer. A lot of cameras have focusing systems. Some you can control. Some you cannot. The cameras that have no focus adjustment at all are the basic disposable point-and-shoot film cameras and some other odd balls on the market like the Holga medium format camera and more.

This question might be better suited for our live chat team or phone sales...or come to the Superstore and we can help you here!

Thanks for reading!

Great tips. I printed the article and put it in my camera owners manual binder..

Hey, Papafuz!

I am glad you enjoyed the article and will be carrying it with you! Thanks for reading!

Ralph, many modern SLR's also have focusing aids in the viewfinder. Look for a left and right arrow with a circle... the arrows tell you which direction to focus and the circle lights up when focus has been reached.

Good tip, Matt! Thanks for helping Ralph out and thanks for reading!

My Canon  A-1 has the center-weighted split image/microprism, which is interchangeble with a Canon shop, I have the split image/microprism metering screens, center-weigthed, partial, and spot, for my Canon New F-1; which I have found great for focusing.

I haven't found a replaceable screen for my 5D III. I have had to switch to manual focus when foreground objects (people) obstruct what I want to shoot. Last month, I was switching between AF and MF photographing Space Shuttle Atlantis. Zooming into her main engines was difficult; AF didn't work, a split image/microprism may have helped.

AF is great, but somtimes, the skills to use MF is neeed.

This article is just what we needed! Thank you for writing it! Look fwd to reading about and learning more. We have NEVER read our cameras' online manuals!!!

Hey Mark and Judy,

I am glad you found the article useful! Best of luck with your new camera(s)!

Be sure to scour the B&H blog for lots of helpful tips and info on your camera and photography!

Thanks for reading!

Great tips!

I like the tip about setting the timezone to UTC. That would eliminate the problem of forgetting to switch from Daylight Saving Time to Standard Time. But once, I used my DSLR also as a watch at Augusta National since they don't allow cellphones even during practice rounds at The Masters.

I have a question about the diopter adjustment. I've needed corrective vision since the early 70's. You did mention to get a vision checkup if things look blurry. Autofocus is great, but I've had a few time when I had to focus manually; in those situations, if the scene is blurry, but the viewfinder is sharp, won't the resulting photos turn out blurry?

Thanks.

With direct-view cameras (SLR or view), "what you see is what you get". You can't have a sharp viewfinder image and an out-of-focus image on the film or sensor. If the image looks sharp in the viewfinder, the recorded image will be sharp.

There's an exception. A regular focusing screen is matte (textured) and scatters the light reaching it, giving the eye a surface to focus on. This allows the image on the screen to appear correctly in- or out-of focus.

With a plain focusing screen (used for greater brightness), there's no texture to scatter the light. The eye can then adapt, pulling out-of-focus objects into focus. In such cases, you need to focus using the parallex between the lens image and crosshairs on the focusing screen.

Ralph...yep, what he (William) said, too!

Thanks for helping, William! And, thanks for reading!

Hey Ralph,

I hope someone got you a wrist watch for a holiday gift! Get one and keep your camera on UTC!

Regarding the diopter...theoretically you can set your diopter to make the image clear when it is slightly out of focus, however, there are other things in the viewfinder to tell you if your diopter is set for your eyes or not. Look at the grid/cross hairs/lines and LED display in the viewfinder when you adjust the diopter. If the camera "stuff" is sharp to your eye, then a sharp image in the viewfinder will be in focus to the camera as well. Does that make sense?

Let me know if you need a wristwatch before you go to Augusta National!

good tips thanks

Thanks for reading, thuon!

Hi Todd,

Your response to a previous set of questions I asked was so good that I just had to send you my latest quandary.

I have a Nikon 10-24mm f/3.5–4.5 lens (which takes a 77mm filter) on a Nikon D5500.  
I am interested in a Circular Polarizing Filter (CP) and Variable Neutral Density Filter (VND), and have a few questions.

On the B&H website, in product Q&As and product Reviews, I’ve seen amazingly conflicting responses to these questions.
I’d like to get an authoritative answer.

  1. Using a CP and VND Filter together:
    1. First of all, one on-line source says a VND is a circular and linear polarizing filter together.  Is that right?  Or, is it two circular polarizing filters?
    2. If a VND is a pair of CP filters, doesn’t it effectively function as a CP filter?
    3. If yes, when dialed down to its lowest ND setting, wouldn’t it be close in function to a single CP filter with a slight ND effect?
    4. If yes, then at higher ND settings, it should offer both the ND function as well as the CP function?
    5. What would happen if a CP and VND filter were actually sandwiched together?
       
  2. Addressing potential vignetting with a 77-82 mm Step-Up-Ring:
    A number of questions have been asked on the B&H website about 77mm filters on this 10-24mm lens. A number of responses from B&H Staff seem to suggest that there may be vignetting when the lens is zoomed towards 10mm.
    1. If a 77–82 Step-Up-Ring was used with an 82 mm filter, would that eliminate this vignetting issue for either a CP or VND filter?
    2. If yes, could any other 82mm filter be successfully sandwiched in between the Step-Up-Ring and either an 82mm CP or VND filter?
       
  3. The Dreaded “X” in VND Filters:
    I read about the “X” cross-hatch pattern seen in some images at the upper end of these filters' light reduction capabilities. Some commenters seem to suggest the appearance of this “X” may also be related to the focal length of the lens being used.
    1. Are some brands of filter more prone to this “X” than others?
    2. Does this appear earlier in the light-reduction range of some filters than others?
    3. If a filter has a range of 1.5 to 9 stops of light reduction, and this “X” appears at 7-stops, then why is it marketed with those three additional dysfunctional stops?
    4. Does the focal length of the lens have any impact on this phenomenon?
    5. Does the fact that I’m using a DX camera (and not a Full Frame) have an impact on this phenomenon? (Some answers on the B&H product Q&A seem to suggest this.)

Thank you very much!
Howard

Hi Howard,

I did not know the answer to your questions, but I did contact our friends at Singh-Ray filters and got some great info for you!

Using a CP and VND Filter together:

First of all, one on-line source says a VND is a circular and linear polarizing filter together.  Is that right?  Or, is it two circular polarizing filters?

If a VND is a pair of CP filters, doesn’t it effectively function as a CP filter?

Singh-Ray's VND filters are a pair of CP filters.

If yes, when dialed down to its lowest ND setting, wouldn’t it be close in function to a single CP filter with a slight ND effect?

That is correct. You will get polarization with the VND filter.

If yes, then at higher ND settings, it should offer both the ND function as well as the CP function?

Yes. That is correct.

What would happen if a CP and VND filter were actually sandwiched together?

Singh-Ray makes a "Duo" filter that combines a VND (2 CPs) and a linear polarizer. They also make a "Trio" that adds a color correction filter.
 

Addressing potential vignetting with a 77-82 mm Step-Up-Ring:
A number of questions have been asked on the B&H website about 77mm filters on this 10-24mm lens. A number of responses from B&H Staff seem to suggest that there may be vignetting when the lens is zoomed towards 10mm.

If a 77–82 Step-Up-Ring was used with an 82 mm filter, would that eliminate this vignetting issue for either a CP or VND filter?

My answer [Not Singh-Ray]...it depends on the lens. A step-up ring may help reduce vignetting, but you'll have to test it to see. It all depends on the focal length of the lens and the design of the front element and housing. Step-up rings are pretty thin, so if you dont get vignetting with a thin UV filter you might have some reduced vignetting using an 82mm instead of a 77mm filter with a step-up ring in this case.

I had a Tokina 12-24mm f/4 lens that experienced vignetting when I added a slim 77mm CP on top of a UV filter. I never tried it without the UV filter.

If yes, could any other 82mm filter be successfully sandwiched in between the Step-Up-Ring and either an 82mm CP or VND filter?

As you add more filters, you will increase the thickness of the setup and increase the possibility of vignetting.
 

The Dreaded “X” in VND Filters:

I read about the “X” cross-hatch pattern seen in some images at the upper end of these filters' light reduction capabilities. Some commenters seem to suggest the appearance of this “X” may also be related to the focal length of the lens being used.

Are some brands of filter more prone to this “X” than others?

[Singh-Ray again] The "X" is referred to as a Maltese Cross by Singh-Ray and others. It happens when you turn your VND filter past the "Max" or "Min" setting. It is a function of the filter, not the brand.

Does this appear earlier in the light-reduction range of some filters than others?

It is possible to experience the Maltese Cross inside the normal operating range of the VND filter if the filter has not been precisely calibrated. But, in general, you should only see it when turning past the Max or Min settings.

If a filter has a range of 1.5 to 9 stops of light reduction, and this “X” appears at 7-stops, then why is it marketed with those three additional dysfunctional stops?

See the above answer.

Does the focal length of the lens have any impact on this phenomenon?

No. Focal length will only effect vignetting...not the Maltese Cross.

Does the fact that I’m using a DX camera (and not a Full Frame) have an impact on this phenomenon? (Some answers on the B&H product Q&A seem to suggest this.)

A DX camera will be less prone to vignetting for any given filter/lens setup as the field of view of the camera is less than a full-frame. But, sensor size has no effect on the Maltese Cross.

I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any follow-up questions!

Thank you very much, Todd.

You guys at B&H have access to sources of information that most ‘mere mortals’ can’t reach. Thanks for using your resources to clarify some of the mythology that floats around the internet!

Regarding my Nikon 10-24 and various possible filter set-ups:
Based on your comment “you'll have to test it to see,” I guess I should order the components from B&H and get ready to do a little ‘Science Fair Project.’ I hate to abuse B&H’s wonderful policy, but it’s nice to know I can keep what works and return the rest for a full refund.

Thanks again for your quick, authoritative, response!
Howard

P.S.  I owe you a research report on my findings — but I’ll skip the three-panel ‘Science Fair Project’ display this time. <Smile>

No worries, Howard!

Based on my experience with the Tokina 12-24mm f/4, you will get vignetting with anything thicker than a slim UV filter...the question is, can you live with it or easily remove it in post-processing.

Good luck! Let us know how it comes out!

Also, check out the Used Department if you want to save a few duckets on the experiment!

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